Kathmandu. The Jirel are an indigenous people living in the Jiri Valley of Dolakha, often called the “Switzerland of Nepal.” At one time, Jiri was considered the gateway to Mount Everest.
When Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa made their historic first ascent of Everest, they traveled to and from the mountain via Jiri. Since then, thousands of trekkers have passed through Jiri, and many took young men from the Jirel community as porters and helpers to reach the foothills of Everest.
For the Jirel community, Lalbahadur Jirel became the first person to reach the summit of Everest. He considers the Himalayas his second home, and his life story is truly inspiring.
Even before becoming a mountaineer, Lalbahadur often carried loads to help climbers reach Everest Base Camp. While studying in grade 8, in 2044 B.S. (1987 A.D.), he went as a porter for the first time to Junbesi in Solukhumbu, which took four days from Jiri. At that time, the daily wage was 45 rupees.
Two years later, carrying loads on contract from Jiri to Namche, he earned 1,400 rupees. “I thought, Wow, I’ve earned 1,400 rupees in my life! That was a lot of money at that time,” he recalls. He was earning to pay school fees and buy notebooks and pens. He says, “When I climbed Everest for the first time in 2010, that is when I fully dedicated myself to tourism.”
Climbing mountains is no easy task. It requires strong determination, good health, confidence, and money.
His First Climb and Inspirations
When asked about his experience on Everest, Lalbahadur says, “I first thought of my mother. I prayed for her health, thinking that if she hadn’t given birth to me, I would never have reached this point.” His mother, Chandramaya, passed away three years ago.
His journey to Everest began with a simple conversation over tea in a café in Thamel. Present were Anil Bhattarai, the first summiteer from the Bahun (Brahmin) community; Indra Rai, the first from the Rai community; Ramkrishna Shrestha, the first from the Newar community; and Kulbahadur Magar, the first from the Magar community. Lalbahadur and Dorje Khatri were also there.
Dorje Khatri encouraged him, saying, “There are already first climbers from other communities. Lalbahadur, now you must become the first from the Jirel community.” He also advised Lalbahadur to raise funds from his community for the climb.
Sadly, Dorje Khatri, who encouraged him, passed away in 2014 in an avalanche in the Everest Icefall.
Challenges and Support
Lalbahadur had never received formal mountaineering training and had not climbed any major peaks before Everest. He had, however, climbed smaller peaks like Pisang Peak, Chulu Far East, Mera Peak, and Thorong Peak, gaining some basic knowledge about mountains.
With courage and support from his community, who helped raise funds, Lalbahadur achieved his goal. On May 23, 2010, at 3:35 a.m., he reached the summit of Everest and unfurled the Jirel Association Nepal flag, the national flag of Nepal, and the UML party flag with the sun emblem, becoming the first person from the Jirel community to climb Everest.
He climbed Everest for the second time on May 23, 2019, at 10:30 a.m., this time from the southern face.
Learning and Growing as a Mountaineer
Although he had climbed Everest, Lalbahadur initially lacked theoretical and technical knowledge about mountaineering. He did not know much about guiding climbers or health management at high altitudes. He took proper mountaineering training only after his first Everest climb.
Everest became the turning point of his life. Earlier, he mostly worked as a guide for foreign trekkers. After Everest, he became a full-fledged mountain guide, and his company now regularly sends him on climbing expeditions.
He is associated with Himalayan Ecstasy Nepal Trek and Expedition Pvt. Ltd. in Kathmandu. During climbing seasons, he guides tourists on mountains. In Nepal, 8,000-meter peaks are usually climbed in spring, while smaller peaks are climbed in winter.
Earnings, Risk, and Passion
Asked about his earnings, he says, “I am managing my life. The income is fair, and I feel self-satisfied.” He acknowledges the risks of mountaineering, but says that the greater the risk, the greater the thrill. “Sometimes, while climbing, you have to step over dead bodies because there is nowhere else to step. This is the work I know,” he says.
The mountains are like his second home. In 2018, he climbed Manaslu, and altogether he has climbed over 29 peaks in Nepal, both large and small. He even climbed Lenin Peak in Kyrgyzstan, guiding foreign climbers there.
Early Life and Trekking Experience
Lalbahadur is a permanent resident of Raatmate, Ward No. 4, Jiri Municipality, Dolakha. After passing the SLC exams, he came to Kathmandu in 2049 B.S. (1992–93 A.D.) for further studies and enrolled at Patan Multiple Campus.
He could not attend college regularly. During trekking seasons, he joined Maklabahadur Jirel, a cook from his village, on trekking trips. As a porter, he traveled to many places, including Everest region, Annapurna Circuit, Dudhkunda, and Langtang, often walking ahead of foreigners while carrying heavy loads and climbing steep trails with sweat pouring down.
Career Development and Training
Because of work pressure, his education suffered, and he could not pass the Intermediate level. However, he gradually advanced in tourism. While working as a porter, he took trekking guide training and was promoted to a guide in 2001, which made life somewhat easier.
Over time, he trained in paragliding, skiing, ice climbing, and high-altitude safety. He also travels to Bangladesh to give pre-mountaineering training. He is an instructor at the Everest Academy founded by his friend Musa Ibrahim, the first Bangladeshi to climb Everest.
Social Work and Views on Tourism
Lalbahadur is active in social work. In his hometown, he helps people during emergencies or when someone is ill. “We have an organization called the Jiri Emergency Relief Foundation. We provide support to anyone from Jiri in need,” he says.
He believes that private companies and individuals have played a major role in developing Nepal’s mountain tourism. The government has not made enough effort to regulate and organize mountaineering. He suggests that the government should work together with private companies to make mountain tourism safer and more organized.
Personal Life
He currently lives in Shankhamul, Lalitpur. In Kathmandu, he rarely uses vehicles and prefers walking. From Shankhamul, he goes on morning walks—to Boudha, Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath, Tikatalli, and Chobhar Hill.
In Jiri, his middle younger brother and father live, while his youngest brother and sister-in-law are abroad. His sisters are married and live in their own homes. Lalbahadur himself is unmarried, saying, “I have been so dedicated to my work that I have no time to marry, and I have no plans to do so.”
His grandfather only saw him interact with foreign climbers, and his father, Lileman, carried loads for foreigners to Everest Base Camp. While his grandfather and father had only glimpses of foreign trekking, Lalbahadur became a trainer for foreign climbers, which he considers a huge achievement.
Conclusion
Walking confidently and climbing the slopes of life, Lalbahadur Jirel has learned many lessons. He wishes to share the skills he has gained with others. May his dreams continue to grow.
We send our heartfelt wishes to this brave hero from Jiri!
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